In September 2022, Marion, an adventure-traveler from Belgium, did the Mosopisiek Trail. A hike into the remote and fertile highlands of Kween District. Afterwards, I interviewed Marion about her experience. With the Community, the nature, the trails, and her guide David.
The ins and outs, so you can get prepared😉
1) What was your expectation about Kween and the Mosopisiek Trail when you booked your trip?
I didn’t know anything about Kween and the Mosopisiek trail. As for most of my hikes, my expectations were rather to disconnect from usual workdays. To allow the continuous walking to take over my thoughts. And to be physically exhausted but rewarded with stunning views.
Guide David. Photo credit: Marion Schneider.
2) What was your first impression of the area and the people?
I was surprised to see the farming lands so well organised. From up there in the mountains, you can see the clear boundaries of the lands. Large, rectangular squares each dedicated to a specific culture. In fact, a bit like in Europe. The tones and colors were also different from what I’m used to in Western Uganda (Fort Portal): Lighter colors, probably due to the predominant cultures in this area, the maize, the millet and potatoes. The mountain is also different from the Rwenzori Mountains in the west of Uganda. After an hour of steep climb, the mountain gives us the impression of being on a plateau. Yet the terrain is hilly with flatter lands that serve as cultivable areas. Most surprisingly, at the tip of this "plateau", the mountains suddenly dip downwards, to the low lands.
The Mosopisiek Community is extremely welcoming. I felt a lot of curiosity and calm. People were open and warm. And of course, my biggest surprise was to discover very quickly the incredible knowledge of my guide, David, on the history of this area, its villages, its traditions, the plants and much more. A guide of about 30 years who has the knowledge of an old man! Who could have guessed!
Donkeys and women close to Mengia, Mosopisiek land. Photo by Juma Chebet
3) What makes this area so unique?
There is something special in the air, probably linked to the altitude and the freshness that accompanies it. But also to the tranquility of the place. You get this feeling of entering a timeless world, almost untouched by the political and economy restlessness of the country and the world. And when we try to learn more, beyond the surface and this tranquility, we realise that this region is unique because of the tribes and the stories that inhabit it. It has a rich, understated history compared to other parts of Uganda.
In term of nature, this area is much more than the proximity with Mount Elgon National Park. The mountains of Kween District combine sublime views of very different landscapes. On one side, the dark and mysterious forest of the National Park. On the other side the open space of farmland, dotted with waterfalls and ancestral caves. While in the distance, the silhouette of Mount Kadam, the gigantic mountain, standing in the middle of the low lands.
4) Would you rate the Mosopisiek Trail as easy, moderate of difficult? And why?
I would rate the Mosopisiek Trail as a moderate trail. The pace was good. Along the trail we did several breaks to allow us (or me!) to catch our breath. But also to admire the stunning views of Mount Elgon National Park. Mount Kadam proudly standing in front us. The magical and shinning waterfalls. The Community lands stretching on the side of the mountains. And most importantly for David to fill me in with his knowledge and ancestral stories about this area.
Homes and potato plantation in the village of Yatui. With Mount Kadam on the background. Photo by Juma Chebet
5) Which spontaneous interactions did you encounter with the people along the Mosopisiek Trail?
On our first day, as we were moving through the villages, I asked David about the type of snacks that we could find on the way. I love snacking while hiking, getting to taste some local street food such as the local banana pancakes, fried cassava, fried mashed potatoes and other Ugandan delicacies. At my request, David slightly altered the trail for us to go through trading centers in this mountainous area. Although we couldn’t find any snacks, we stopped regularly as David was greeted by acquaintances and friends. Each time, he introduced me and it was an opportunity to have small exchanges with the very curious and warm Community. Continuing our quest for local snacks, we decided to stop in a village to have a proper lunch. David took me to a small hut. From outside, I couldn’t see the inside. It was so dark. After entering, my eyes got used to the obscurity and I could see a woman preparing the food over charcoal. The atmosphere inside was hot and humid, with smoke coming from the charcoal. If we were the first to enter the hut. A group of five to six people quickly joined us. Only a few words were exchanged, but I enjoyed this authentic moment in a dark and hot hut. On top of that, I got my favorite meal served: beans and some local greens!
I also remember a moment around David’s home, in the morning, looking for a viewpoint. We reached a rocky platform. Out of time, from another planet. And there, was standing a “Mzee”, an elder. In his nineties according to David. I remember feeling impressed in front of him. Despite his advanced age, a charismatic aura was emanating from this man and I could imagine him having witnessed the unfolding of several generations.
Marion at a viewpoint in Yatui (2700m ASL). Photo credit: Marion Schneider
6) What did you learn about the culture and the lifestyle of the Mosopisiek?
Because David has so much knowledge about his area and culture, I learnt a lot in only two days. I wish I could remember all the details! What struck me the most was the current political situation of the Mosopisiek tribe. Being an unrecognised tribe in Uganda, they must register under the Sabiny tribe. This is a moral, cultural and political dilemma. For this reason, many Mosopisiek people don’t have identity papers.
Mosopisiek women. Photo credit: Juma Chebet
7) What tips do you have for other travelers who are considering a trip to THIS AREA?
Definitely bring warm clothes as it gets chilly up here! Also, don’t rush your stay in the area. There is so much to explore. Slow travel is the way to go if you are looking for deeper connections with the Mosopisiek Community.
Mosopisiek elder. Photo credit: Juma Chebet
8) How did you experience the stay at the home of David and his wife?
David and his family are wonderful hosts. The place was simple but comfortable. I feel grateful and honored that they opened their doors to me. David told me a lot about his family: Where he is from, where he met his wife, his future personal plans, his aspirations for his children and his projects to support the Community. Because of the way this experience is organised, I interacted with David and his wife at a different level than if I had only spent a day hiking with David. I got to witness their daily activities and routines. And enjoyed the beautiful views from their home. In the morning, after the most magical experience of watching the sun rise over the mountains with a cup of hot tea, I even participated in milking the cows!
Mosopisiek children in Sabu village, close to the border with Mount Elgon National Park. Photo credit: Daan Oxener
9) What activities or highlights should not be left out when someone does the Mosopisiek Trail?
I have to say that I was a bit dubious when David offered me to visit several caves. I already visited some so-called caves in Uganda and I have always been a little disappointed by the way they were presented. However, the caves visited on the Mosopsiek Trail are remarkable and come with a unique history and ancestral traditions.
I was particularly impressed by the largest cave we visited (Mukuuso). Never mapped, the actual size remains unknown to date, but the cave most likely extends over more than 30 kilometers! According to David, some people walked two whole days in the cave without being able to reach its bottom. Beyond the incredible surroundings (a waterfall plunging in front of the cave entrance, lush vegetation all around), the stories of the past give a mystical dimension to this cave. Indeed, as we sat at the entrance of the cave, the waterfall shining in front us and the mysterious darkness of the cave behind us, David told me about a clan war that took place in this region in 1917 whereby an entire clan was trapped and perished in this cave!
Guide David in front of Mukuuso cave. August 2020. Photo credit: Daan Oxener
Another hidden cave was the child naming cave. This cave still hosts cultural ceremonies for special children. A special child might be a child crying all the time for no reason or a child having health issues. It could mean that an ancestor is trying to claim rights over this child. In that case, a child naming ceremony is held in order to determine which ancestor manifests through the child.
10) What should the world come to know about Kween and the Mosopisiek?
The cultural identity of this area needs to be highlighted. The spotlight is on Sipi Falls, but Mount Elgon offers so much more than this. The Mosopisiek area has a lot of potential in terms of tourism. The North of Uganda, the Karamoja region, is known for its culture and traditions. Kween and the Mosopisiek should not be left out and deserve more recognition in Uganda!
At the home of Joshua Cheptegei’s grandpa and grandma. June 2022. Photo credit: Juma Chebet
What do you think of Marion’s adventure? Leave a comment in the box below:)
This blog is written by Daan Oxener, a Dutch social entrepreneur who is based in Kapchorwa since 2016. Daan manages Home of Friends Guesthouse, together with his fiancé Eliza. He is passionate about documenting Mount Elgon’s beautiful nature and remarkable culture. Daan is also engaged in Community & youth empowerment through adventure tourism.