Once Mount Elgon was the highest mountain in Africa. Nowadays, due to erosion, it is the 22nd highest peak on the continent. Mount Elgon is one of the ultimate adventure destinations in Uganda. In this blog the highlights of a 5-day climb to the peaks of Mount Elgon, by Daan (Home of Friends) and Juma (Massif Montane Expedition).
Day 1: Piswa Camp - New Hunters Cave (16km)
Kapkwata, the proposed starting point of our Mount Elgon hike, is hard to reach during this muddy season. After an adventurous and bumpy ride, a local taxi drops us near the river of Kwosir at 2700m. altitude. The bridge has collapsed so we can’t reach any further. We first walk through some serene local villages before we reach the boundary of Mount Elgon National Park. Some kids walk along with us when we enter the forest. After one hour we reach Piswa camp, a place where soldiers are stationed to protect the forest from poachers and other intruders. After the Piswa camp, we walk straight into the montane rainforest and when we leave the forest, the landscape has dramatically changed. Green and yellowish moorlands loom up as we pass small streams. Streams that will turn into waterfalls on the lower slopes of the mountain. Along one of these streams we take our lunch break, while we enjoy the spectacular landscape around us, dominated by the endemic Senecio Elgonessis tree. We also encounter the ‘Artemisia’ plant, a medicine and repellent against malaria. Our rangers Meddy and Karim turn out to be knowledgeable in pointing out the names of flowers and trees around us. We are lucky that the weather is dry on this first day, though the last two hours are giving us some drizzles. The Piswa trail is enjoyable because of the gradual climb to the higher belts of Mount Elgon.
Around 5pm we reach our sleeping place: The ‘new hunters cave’ at an altitude of 3.350m. The cave gives a small shelter for the rain where both our tents can’t fit. That’s why I decide to wait and pitch my tent outside the cave when the drizzles have stopped. In the evening we warm ourselves around the campfire. Our cook prepares some rice with tomato/aubergine sauce, a welcome energy booster after the 16km long hike of the first day.
Day 2: New Hunters Cave - Mude Basecamp (11km)
Apart from the amazing landscapes, I realize that Mount Elgon is a real adventure destination for a second reason: the chilly, cold nights! After some hot coffee and warming hands above the fire, we leave at 8am for a further 650m. climb to the caldera ridge (4.000m.) Another great way to warm up the body! The landscape on this side of the mountain is simply stunning: A combination of moorlands, steep rocks and more Senecio trees! We imagine how fantastic it would be to make drone shots from here. When we reach the caldera ridge, the mist is blocking our view. But after a 30 minutes’ walk along the ridge the sky brightens up. On the horizon we can see the peaks that demarcate the border between Kenya and Uganda while in front the caldera crater is giving us a magical view. Through soft grasslands - comfortable for the feet - we find our way to the trail that connects to Mude Basecamp (3500m). I am noticing how fast the weather changes here. One moment I am walking with two rain jackets, next moment the sun is out and I am only wearing a T-shirt. After a gradual descent, a walk through a swamp and some rocky passage along the Simu Gorge, we reach Mude Basecamp around 4pm. A pleasant overnight stay compared with the first night, as we can pitch our tent in a hut!
Day 3: Mude Basecamp - Wagagai Peak - Mude Basecamp (18km)
The third day is the day of our major goal of this trip: reaching Wagagai, the highest peak of Mount Elgon with 4.321m. We leave again early morning (7am) and along the first kilometers we enjoy views of the Jackson’s summit and table and the Mubiyi peaks (4200m). On a lower altitude we see the plains of Mbale with Wanale hill. Halfway the climb Jackson pool provides a pleasant rest point. Our ranger Meddy tells us that during dry season tourists like to swim here. Because of the gradual elevation of Mount Elgon, Wagagai peak can only be seen in the last kilometer. Just before the peak, we refill our water bottle, on a plateau with incredible views of the crater lakes, in the largest mountain caldera of the world. The weather changes again as we climb the last 100 meter to Wagagai: our hands and ears get frozen by small hailstones. Though the weather is cold and the views are blocked by mist, it is a warm and exciting moment to reach Wagagai! We take some 5 minutes for quick snapshots on all cameras, before we head back the same way to Mude Basecamp. At 3pm we reach Mude where our cook and porter have lightened the fire already.
Day 4 Mude Basecamp - Tutum Cave (37km)
Yes, with 37km this is the longest day of our hike. The good news is that most of the trail we are descending. Though we need to pass some valleys, which means there are some short, steep climbs involved as well. The first part of the trail goes up to about 3950m. But we are lucky with blue and bright skies that give a great impression of the large Simu Gorge. After the Simu Gorge we find some incredible rocks with everlasting flowers in front of it. At 1pm we reach our lunch point for today, Kajeri camp, where our cook Robert prepares some much-needed spaghetti. After lunch, it takes us some 3,5 hours, 17km and some serious rain showers to reach Tutum Camp. Just before the camp, the largest cave on Mount Elgon, Tutum, gives us a lasting impression.
Day 5: Tutum Cave – Kapkwai Exploration Center (11km)
Going the extra mile on day 4, gives us a pleasant and short walk to the end point of our Mount Elgon climb: Kapkwai Exploration Center and UWA ranger base. We walk through dense rain forest, encounter some blue and Black-and-White Colobus monkeys. We also pass through a mixed bamboo forest. After a 3 hour walk we feel delighted to reach the finish point: Kapkwai Exploration Center, 6km. off the main Kapchorwa-Sipi road. What a great experience and ultimate adventure this was!
Tips
Last but not least, some tips to avoid blisters:
Put baby powder on your feet each morning
Wear two pairs of socks
And some general tips to be fully prepared for your hike:
Take glucose powder with you for energy boosters along the way
Pack enough snacks (nuts, crisps) for the same reason
Drink enough water to prevent any negative effects from elevation sickness
Hire a porter to carry your luggage (see price below)
Pricing
Of recent, the park fee for Mount Elgon went down to 50USD per day for foreigners and foreign residents. Ugandan nationals pay 50000UGX per 24 hours. On top of the park fee, a camping fee of 20000UGX per person per night is charged by the UWA. The actual price of a cook is 30000UGX per day and for a porter 40000UGX per day.
NB: Our Guesthouse is located at a 40 minutes drive from Kapkwai Exploration Center (possible starting and payment point) and a 60 minutes drive from the start of the Piswa trail.
Interested to climb Mount Elgon too? Contact Juma: +256(0)757278381 / +256(0)787767402 / info@massifmontaneexpedition.com
Interested in hiking Mount Elgon outside the National Park boundaries? We offer some great Community hikes.
This blog is written by Daan Oxener, a Dutch social entrepreneur who is based in Kapchorwa since 2016. Daan is the manager of Home of Friends Guesthouse. He is passionate about exploring Mount Elgon’s stunning nature and authentic culture. Through Run Kapchorwa he empowers youth with skilling & employment opportunities.