There is a moment on Mount Elgon where everything becomes quiet.
No traffic.
No signal.
Just the sound of your own footsteps and the wind moving through the moorlands.
Together with Juma from Massif Montane Expedition, I set out on a 5-day hike to Wagagai Peak — the highest point of Mount Elgon.
This is not a complete guide but what it actually felt like to be out there.
For routes, permits and practical planning, see our Complete Guide to Mount Elgon National Park →
A quick look at the route
We followed a variation of the Piswa Route:
Start: Kapkwata side (around 2,700m)
Highest point: Wagagai Peak (4,321m)
Loop via the caldera and descent towards Kapkwai
It’s a route known for being quieter, more remote and wide open compared to Sasa.
Day 1 — Into the Moorlands
The adventure starts before the hiking even begins.
The drive towards Kapkwata is rough, especially in the rainy season. At one point, the road simply gives up and we continue on foot, crossing a river where the bridge used to be.
Walking through small villages, children join us for a while — curious, relaxed, unbothered by the fact that we are heading into the mountains for five days.
Once inside the park, the forest slowly opens up into moorlands. Streams cut through the landscape, and the first giant Senecio trees appear — slightly unreal, like something from another planet.
By late afternoon we reach New Hunters Cave (3,350m).
The cave itself is basic, so we pitch tents outside. A bit of drizzle, a small fire and a simple meal of rice and vegetables.
It’s a quiet start.
Exactly what you want.
A village close to the starting point of the Piswa Trail
Day 2 — Reaching the Caldera
The second day feels like entering a different world.
We climb towards 4,000 meters, where the caldera rim slowly reveals itself. The weather shifts constantly — mist rolling in, then suddenly clearing to reveal wide views across the Kenya border.
For a moment, everything opens up.
You realise how massive Mount Elgon actually is. Not steep and dramatic like other peaks. But wide, soft, and endless.
The descent towards Mude Basecamp is long but steady. Swamps, rocky sections and patches of sun that quickly turn into cold wind again.
We arrive around 4pm.
Compared to the first night, Mude feels almost luxurious — a hut to pitch the tents inside, and a bit more shelter from the cold.
Hikers on the trails to Mount Elgon’s peaks. Photo credit: Uganda Wildlife Authority
Day 3 — Wagagai Peak
Summit day.
We leave early, following a trail that passes Jackson’s Summit and Mubiyi Peak. The landscape is open and quiet, with views stretching all the way towards Mbale and Wanale Hill.
Halfway, we stop at Jackson’s Pool. Calm water, surrounded by the high-altitude silence.
As we approach Wagagai, the peak doesn’t reveal itself easily. It stays hidden until the final stretch.
And then the weather turns.
Hail, wind and mist.
The kind of conditions where you stop thinking about views and just focus on moving forward.
Reaching the summit is not a dramatic, cinematic moment.
It’s a quiet one.
A quick photo, cold hands, and then turning back towards Mude.
But somewhere on the way down, it sinks in:
You’re standing on one of Africa’s highest peaks and there is almost no one else around.
Daan and Juma conquering Wagagai peak
Day 4 — The Long Walk
This is the day you feel in your legs.
37 kilometres.
Mostly descending, but not as easy as it sounds. The trail constantly moves up and down through valleys.
At one point, the skies finally clear again.
We get wide views over the Simu Gorge — one of those moments where you just stop walking for a bit.
Lunch at Kajeri Camp, then continuing through wet trails and moorlands towards Tutum Cave.
By the time we arrive, we’re tired.
Tutum Cave is massive. Dark, quiet and impressive in a completely different way than the open landscapes above.
It feels like a proper ending to a long day.
Tutum cave. Photo credit: Juma Chebet
Day 5 — Back to the Forest
The final stretch is gentle.
Descending through bamboo and dense forest, the air becomes warmer again. After days in the open highlands, the forest feels almost crowded.
We spot colobus monkeys along the way — a reminder that we’re slowly returning to a different ecosystem.
By the time we reach Kapkwai Exploration Center, the journey is complete.
We end with a warm goodbye to our rangers and a quiet sense of fulfillment.
What MADE THIS EXPERIENCE MEANINGFUL
Mount Elgon is about space.
Space to walk.
Space to think.
Space to disconnect from everything that usually fills your day.
What surprised me most is how remote it feels — even though it’s relatively accessible from Kapchorwa.
And how different each day is:
Forest → moorland → caldera → caves
Warm → cold → sun → mist → hail
The mountain keeps changing, without any feeling of rush
Is This Hike for You?
This route is a good fit if you:
Enjoy long-distance hiking over several days
Prefer quiet, less crowded trails
Don’t mind basic camping conditions
Are curious about landscapes that feel wide and untouched
It might not be for you if you’re looking for:
Short hikes or quick summit wins
Luxury or comfort along the way
Thinking About Hiking Mount Elgon?
If you’re considering your own trek, the best place to start is with the practical side:
→ See routes, permits and costs in our Complete Guide to Mount Elgon National Park
And if you’re staying in Kapchorwa before or after your hike:
→ Explore our Guesthouse & base for Mount Elgon adventures
→ Discover our Community hikes around Kapchorwa
Ready to Experience It Yourself?
Mount Elgon doesn’t shout for attention.
But if you give it a few days, it stays with you.
If you’re curious to plan your own hike or combine it with Community-based experiences around Kapchorwa, feel free to reach out.
We’re always happy to share what inspired us over the past decade.
This blog is written by Daan Oxener, a Dutch social entrepreneur who is based in Kapchorwa since 2016. Daan manages Home of Friends Guesthouse, together with his wife Eliza. He is passionate about documenting Mount Elgon’s beautiful nature and remarkable culture. Daan is also engaged in Community & youth empowerment through adventure tourism.